By 
A real debate came up from a conversation I had with a fellow connoisseur of French fashion.
We were analysing the Hermès Spring 23 fashion show and he pointed out how Hermès, a symbol of the French elite, had included black-skinned models in its fashion show.
This consideration, on his part, was negative. He wondered why a brand with a heritage of its own and a positioning as a high-end French luxury brand could make this decision. Mainly because it is directed at a strict white elite.
Marketing strategy or changing of path?
He justified the brand’s direction as a pure marketing strategy. He didn’t see it as an innovative approach for a luxury brand willing to open up to greater diversity.
Gucci’s constructive example
If we look at the examples of brands that have followed this intuition, we can certainly say that they have been rewarded with a boost in sales. Think about Gucci, we are in the pre-fall 2017 campaign when it centres the scene on the Soul context with exclusively African-American models with black skin. Gucci was one of the very first to elevate diversity as a value and wealth, which did not decrease sales but quite the contrary.
Consumer’s change
This is because Gucci realised that final consumers were changing, they were paying attention and highly sensitive to diversity and inclusion. Willing, therefore, to move away from racist and exclusive prejudices linked to the world of fashion.
Needless to say, Gucci is an Italian brand, and seeing Hermès, a French brand, following this non-conformist direction in a culture like the French one where prejudice is rooted, can raise discussion.
Fashion through new lenses
From my point of view, I couldn’t deny that the choice could be dictated by brand strategy. On the other hand, however, it reflected a need. The need was that of opening up as much as possible to diversity and inclusion.
Therefore the strategic discussion or not is in itself irrelevant when the ultimate aim is to open up to a new vision, which is a real fight against prejudices.
I reiterate the need to hold on for a moment and reflect upon and move away from a now short-sighted vision of a fashion world in the hands of a purely white elite.
The real innovation is to destroy the paradigms of class and race, freeing skin colour from any obtuse meaning that limits the freedom of expression. Society and we as consumers are changing, we have become more sensitive to these issues and less to the frivolity that is typically associated with fashion. Fashion is a reflection of society, and as such, it needs change and has to evolve in favour of constructive principles and values.
