a reading of Prada FW21 womenswear collection
The Prada FW21 womenswear collection echoes the previous menswear collection both in terms of the setting and the clothes themselves. The title of the runway show, “possible feelings: transmute” leaves room for fantasy and free interpretation, where being a man or a woman is irrelevant in front of a constant reinvention of silhouettes that can fit either of them.
I’d like to connect this consideration with Miuccia Prada’s affirmation during the 3rd Q&A conversation held after the show, when she points out the importance of being active politically. Politically not in its strict meaning of dealing with general politics, although this aspect should not be left aside, but more specifically by referring to gender and race, i.e. all those sociological aspects that entrap people and prevent them from expressing who they really are. So when I watch the show and keep this aspect in mind, I understand the word “transmuting” as the ongoing transformation of clothes that can adapt on every body and situation because they are not subdued to any judgement. Thus, “transmuting” encapsulates a hybrid meaning, which is not static, and embraces a wider range of possibilities.
Metaphorically speaking it represents the show itself, where the very same idea of Pradaness can be interpreted like a story with several layers in it: paillettes under clean technical lines, oversize bomber jackets that hide patterned tights, one-piece suits with jersey applications, black dresses mixed with a splash of fluo colors.
Once again Miuccia Prada in collaboration with Raf Simons demonstrates that fashion is not simply about clothes that are shown on a stage, but can deal with several political points. As Miuccia says, the fashion industry must be active and really push on matters such as behaving well as an industry, contributing to change and being involved in social aspects such as diversity, gender and the ecosystem in general.